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Exploring Portugal and America's Oldest Subway

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Exploring Portugal and America's Oldest Subway

Recapping the 2023 Wheelchair Travel Group Trip to Portugal and celebrating the anniversary of America's oldest subway system.

Sep 5, 2023
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Exploring Portugal and America's Oldest Subway

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Olá, amigos!

I’ve just returned from an exciting Wheelchair Travel Group Trip to Portugal and was truly sad to leave — it’s amazing how quickly our group meshed, and it’s safe to say that many friendships were formed.

Group of Wheelchair Travel readers with John in front of a bridge styled like the Golden Gate overlooking a large river and the city of Lisbon.

I’ll recap the trip later in this email, but first want to mention a few things that are on my radar for the coming weeks.

Advocacy continues for accessible air travel

Equal access to air travel for disabled people is among my top priorities, but even the smallest of victories requires enormous effort. Later this month, I am looking forward to connecting with other advocates and industry stakeholders at the All Wheels Up Global Forum on Wheelchair Accessible Air Travel in Washington, D.C.

Next week, look out for an email that will invite you to participate in my latest advocacy initiative, one that I hope will speed up the timeline for getting a wheelchair space and accessible bathrooms on airplanes.

Wheelchair Travel Newsletter is a reader-supported publication. To receive new posts and support my work, consider becoming a free or paid subscriber.

Alaska in October

In October 2011, about a year before my car accident and disability, I took my first (and only) trip to the State of Alaska. It was an impromptu adventure spurred on by a cheap airline ticket. I had no real plan, but those 48 hours in Anchorage, Talkeetna and Seward more than a decade ago remain as one of my all-time favorite travel memories.

John standing in front of mountains in Alaska.
John standing over Resurrection Bay in Seward, Alaska — October 2011.

History repeats itself and, thanks to another airfare deal, I’ll be traveling to Juneau, Alaska during the first week of October! I’ll be on the ground for only 64 hours, but am eager to forge new (hopefully accessible) memories in what is truly America’s last frontier. I have no plan, but would love your advice. What can I do with two full days in Juneau as a power wheelchair user?

Recapping the 2023 Portugal Group Trip

I was honored to welcome Wheelchair Travel readers from the United States and Canada to Portugal this year for what might have been my best group trip yet. I truly had a blast getting to know everyone while exploring one of Europe’s top destinations. Here are some highlights from the trip — specifically, my three favorite stops on the itinerary:

In Lisbon, we learned about Portugal’s role in the age of discovery, visited legendary explorer Vasco da Gama’s tomb, and enjoyed a local delicacy (the Pastéis de Belém) with a cup of espresso — and that was all before lunch!

Tall sail-shaped stone monument with carvings of explorers.Tall sail-shaped stone monument with carvings of explorers.

Vasco da Gama’s tomb is located inside the 15th century Jerónimos Monastery, a UNESCO World Heritage Site which has been made wheelchair accessible using a series of ramps. After the action-packed morning, we took lunch by the waterfront, then visited the air-conditioned Coaches Museum, which displays centuries of horse-drawn carriages used by kings, queens and popes.

In Sintra, we visited Queluz Palace (the “Portuguese Versailles”), dined like kings and wandered the streets of the historic town center.

Photos of travelers in front of a palace and walking on the sidewalks in front of a lush landscape around a palace.Photos of travelers in front of a palace and walking on the sidewalks in front of a lush landscape around a palace.Photos of travelers in front of a palace and walking on the sidewalks in front of a lush landscape around a palace.

Construction of the Queluz Palace began in 1747. Initially intended as a summer retreat, the palace became the official residence of the sovereign following the destruction of the Ajuda Palace in 1794. Its beautiful interior and gardens remind travelers of the French Palace of Versailles (read about Versailles here) — it’s always one of my favorite stops on a tour of Portugal.

After visiting the palace, we had lunch in Sintra at a restaurant that members of the group called “exceptional.” Our four-course lunch offered something for everyone — soup, salad, steak, shrimp, fish and dessert, plus a variety of drinks including red and white sangria.

In Nazaré, we enjoyed a fantastic meal near the beach known for its world-record waves, soaked in the sun rays, and did some shopping before visiting the scenic overlook.

Group photo overlooking the white sandy beach with beautiful blue water.

Although no one chose to take a dip in the Atlantic, it was an option — Nazaré Beach has beach wheelchairs and other accessibility features for disabled visitors. It was here in 2020 that German surfer Sebastian Steudtner rode the biggest wave in history (86 feet), beating the previous record of Brazilian surfer Rodrigo Koxa (80 feet) that was also gained at Nazaré. After checking out the beach, we did some shopping and wandered through the side streets of Portugal’s premier beach town.

A Note on 2024 Group Tours

The slate of Wheelchair Travel Group Trips for 2024 will be announced soon and I’m eager to present a number of my favorite destinations for the first time. Demand is expected to be high and paid subscribers to this newsletter will receive the first opportunity to reserve their spots. To guarantee you won’t miss out on a future group trip announcement, consider upgrading to a paid subscription.

America’s Oldest Subway Tunnel Celebrated 126 Years Last Week

The world’s first subway opened on January 10, 1863 in London, England, inspiring many other cities to follow, including Budapest, Hungary in 1896 (check out the Budapest Wheelchair Travel Guide) and Paris in 1900.

Trolley car operating on underground track.
A trial run of the subway from Boston's Park Street Station before the 1897 opening of the city's subway. (Boston Pictorial Archive, Boston Public Library)

In the United States, the Tremont Street subway in Boston boasted the country’s first underground subway tunnel, which opened to the public on September 1, 1897.

Historical photo of the entrances to the original Boston subway.
Park Street subway station entrances, circa 1906. (Universal History Archive/Universal Images Group)

Portions of that first underground tunnel are still in use today on the city’s Green Line, and the headhouses to the wheelchair accessible Park Street station in Boston Common are original.

If you’d like to learn more about the original Tremont Street Subway, check out Joe McKendry’s 2004 book, Beneath the Streets of Boston: Building America’s First Subway. In the coming months, I’ll be producing some new and extended content about my home city, which I believe to be the premier accessible travel destination in New England.

One last thing...

When I arrived home last week, I wasn't feeling too great and tested positive for what has proven to be a mild case of the coronavirus. It’s my first time catching the bug, and it comes amid what many are saying is a record-breaking surge. I have stocked up on meds and tissues, and I hope to recover quickly. Stay safe out there.

Talk to you soon,
John

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Exploring Portugal and America's Oldest Subway

wheelchairtravel.substack.com
Judy Guiraud
Sep 8

John, in many ways Juneau hasn’t changed and those I remember well. In October lots of rain some snow protect your chair. Juneau is not level even though it has a ferry dock. The mosquitoes are so big they cast shadows.

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